AA Gill reviews

Sunday, February 06, 2011 - I started with a melange of seasonal vegetables, turnips and radishes, shallots and beetroot, a revelation of care and excellence. Each ingredient tasted as you remember, but more so, bigger, brighter, louder, smarter. Together, they were a chant of winter flavours. The Blonde had ravioli in clear stock that was made with the addition of apple juice. Again, a clever surprise of warmth and clarity and season...Altogether this bosky cuisine is a revelation, not just of taste, but of spirit and conviction, and the elan of the cook. It is also splendidly expensive. Personally, I don't begrudge him a red sou.