Le Pre Catelan
our comments
The Pré Catelan has leafy garden with tables set amid fluttering parasols and an elegant dining room warmed by a crackling fire. The versatile talent of chef Frédéric Anton, once right-hand man to the great Robuchon, suits both settings, with dishes that are by turns urbane or rustic. In season, you’ll discover an extraordinary menu truffe et cochon, which demonstrates that with the right perfume---truffles, for example---one can indeed turn a sow’s ear into something sublime: in this case a sow’s ear crisp with langoustines. Sophisticated spicing marks the black risotto with Thai basil, and lamb’s brain salad with its exquisite saffron aspic. The cellar is well served by a first-rate sommelier and the set meal will give you a good sampling of the multifarious talents of this chef.- March 2005
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